View from cave at Badami, Karnataka

Forget Petra (Jordon) and book tickets for Badami. Badami an ancient city popular for it's rich heritage sites and marvelous rock cut cave temples. Once upon a time we all have studied in history books about Badami and it's Chalukyas dynasty. To be honest even I felt all these things so boring while reading in books. But after visiting to Hampi in 2018 I realized some incidents from history might be boring to us but what they built is not deserved to ignore. I fell in love with all those monuments even they are in ruins now. 

I never thought that Badami trip will happen in all sudden. For last 6 months of 2019 I didn't got any paid work and thinking about any trip was not less than crime for me. In last week of December I got paid work and I made a one day trip plan with one of my friend from final year engineering classmate. Guess what? That guy cancel trip just a day before trip. I'm so used to with people who cancels plans on last moment. I just published a story on my Insta account where I asked people to join me for trip. Ta daa.....Shreays(my diploma classmate who never say no to tripping) and Vaibhav(Instagram follower who turned a friend after this trip) blindly agreed to join me next day for trip. We took Solapur-Dharwad fast passenger from solapur which leaves 00:40am and reaches 05.30am to Badami. Do you know this railway journey costs just Rs.50? Entire train had 70% vacant seats till we reached our destination. That's the reason I skipped booking sleeper class ticket.

Next morning we reached Badami before sunrise. Outside of Badami railway station we took shared riksha for Badami main town. Fare for each person from station to town is just Rs.10. After walking for 10 minutes from main bus stand of Badami town we reached to our destination. As soon as we reached Agatsya lake (also known as agatsya tirtha), a large group of monkeys welcomed us with dancing around us. Not to be surprise locals were washing cloths and utensils like any other place in India that too at Agatsya lake which is part of UNESCO heritage site. Agatsya lake is holy lake situated at foothills of Badami cave temple and Bhutanatha temple complex. This picturesque lake adds charm to beautiful landscape of Bhutanatha temple complex and hills in background to it. Bhutanatha temple built in 7th century but the outer walls constructed in 11th century. Undoubtedly, this temple complex is one of best temple built by Chalukyas. At back side of bhutanatha temple there are few rock cut carvings of shiva and other hindu gods.

 
Morning rays falling on Bhutanatha Temple and reflections of temple on Agatsya lake
 
Sunstar with a view of Bhutanatha temple, Badami

Mallikarjuna Temple, a part of Bhutanatha group of temples, is the second most important temple from same cluster. This beautiful temple is constructed during the era of the Rashtrakutas and Kalyani Chalukyas.

Mallikarjuna temple Badami
 

Badami cave temples are a group of 4 rock cut caves temple. First 3 cave temples are Brahmanical, while the fourth is Jain. The Cave 1 is having important carvings, in this cave an 18-armed dancing Shiva is excellently carved out, also two-handed Ganesha, Mahishasura Mardini, Ardha Nareeshwara & Shankarnarayana too carved in same cave. Cave 2 is having Vaishanavite influence and on ceilings there are carvings of Anantasayana, Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva & other Ashtadikpalas (In Hinduism the Guardians of the Directions (Sanskrit: दिक्पाल, Dikpāla) are the deities who rule the specific directions of space according to Hinduism and Vajrayāna Buddhism). Cave 3 is largest and most beautiful among all caves. An inscription found here records the creation of the shrine by Mangalesha in 578 AD. Cave 3 is having dedicated carvings on both shaivite and vaishanavite themes. Panels of Trivikrama, Narasimha, Shankaranarayana, Bhuvaraha, Anantasayana & Harihara are engraved in a vigorous style. Cave 4 is based on Jain religion which is having image of Mahavira adorning the sanctum.




Dwarpal carved at Badami cave 1





  


    
 



We got exhausted after exploring all temples and caves from morning to 11.30 that too without any breakfast and without getting fresh up. On main highway we found one small restaurant, where we ate idli, vada with sambar and chutney. Next plan was to visit Pattadakal and Aihole. While discussing with travel mates in train I added Hampi too for Day 2 if our budget allows. After fishing our brunch we took KSRTC bus to Pattadakal which is at 20km distance from Badami.

Pattadakal group of monuments is a major temple complex in Pattadakal town and also UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are about 8 hindu temples in one cluster, 1 temple outside cluster about 1km distance and 1 jain temple close to main road about 1km distance. This temple complex situated on bank of Malaprabha river. In 6th century Pattadakal with Aihole and Badami become cultural and religious site of inventions in architecture and experimentation of ideas. Chalukyas of Badami (543-753 CE) built very large temple complex for royal commemoration and coronation in Pattadakal. 4 temples inside complex are constructed in traditional Dravidian architecture, 4 temples in Nagara architecture. Two most important temples in complex are Papanath and Virupaksha temple. Both of these temples constructed with blend of North Indian and South Indian architecture styles. The all hindu temples are dedicated to lord Shiva, but one can find elements of Vaishnavism and Shaktism Theology and Mythology. On outside and inside of all temples there are many stories from Ramayana, Bagavath Gita and Vishnu puran are depicted.

Pattadakal Group Of Monuments, World UNESCO heritage site


Nandi next to Sangameshwara Temple at Pattadakal Group Of Monuments

Eight armed shiva killing demon Adhaka carved at Galagnatha Temple, Pattadakal Group of Monuments
   
Virupaksha Temple, Pattadakal Group of Monuments          Virupaksha Temple, Pattadakal Group of Monuments
Virupaksha Temple, Pattadakal Group of Monuments           Students enjoying and laying on grass field next to Pattadakal Group of Monuments

While standing next to such a marvelous architecture which is built back in 7th and 8th century took me to the golden days of Chalukya dynasty. I was literally overawed by the creativity of the artist of those times.

While waiting for bus to Hampi our foots automatically followed food. Next to Pattadakal temple complex there are some local restaurants and shops. Where you can find traditional food dishes from Karnataka and other north Indian dishes too. We ate Roti, Brinjal sabzi, Kadi, Rice with homemade mango pickle. Everything on plate was much tasty and enough to full my tummy. In just Rs.60 they served Thali, which comes with 2 roties, Brinjal sabzi and Ladyfingers currey, Kadi, Rice (Unlimited), pickle. You should must try this thali when at Pattadakal. Unfortunately we skipped Aihole as we made plan to visit Hampi as we explored a lot in Badami and Pattadakal.

Pattadakal Local restaurantBadami Pattadakal Aihole road

 

Tip:- Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole can be explored in single day only. Early morning go to Pattadakal and Aihole as most of monuments are east facing. Also Pattadakal and Aihole have all temples in same cluster so it's less time consuming to explore all temples. In Badami, Bhutanatha temple, small shrines and Mallikarjuna temple are around Agatsya lake. These temples are either west facing or south facing so it's best to visit at sunset time. Caves and Fort can be visited in afternoon hours but visit before gates gets close for entry.

Total Budget:-

Train Solapur to Badami - Rs 50 

Caves entry fees - Rs 25

Breakfast - Rs 60

Ksrtc Badami to Pattadakal - Rs 15

Pattadakal Entry fees - Rs 25